what is Pattern Making

Pattern Making is a blueprint for the garment, on the basis of which the fabric is cut. It is the technical drawing or drafting of a garment. Standard size charts, dress forms or figures are measured, these measurements are then converted into 2D patterns and then garments are made from them

What are pattern-making techniques?

Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. ... Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure

What's draping?

verb (used with object), draped, draping. to cover or hang with cloth or other fabric, especially in graceful folds; adorn with drapery. to adjust (curtains, clothes, etc.) into graceful folds, attractive lines, etc.

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern-making involves three methods-

• Drafting
• Draping
• Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting:

It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping:

It involves the draping of a two-dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. The advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time-consuming than flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making:

It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for women's clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women's styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For good pattern-making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).

Pattern making in Today's World

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of computers. Nowadays different software are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers. The different software used is Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, OptiTex, richpeace, etc. This software has made the job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern-making more economical and less time-consuming.

Pattern-making software enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These software draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these software. An individual's measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.